Hakone and Surroundings
A trip to Hakone should almost be considered essential if you're in Tokyo, but make sure to give it some time.
Hakone isn't far from Tokyo, though it's the kind of distance you'd be surprised to learn you could cover on public transit in North America. If you map in and ask for directions you'll get a time of anywhere between an 1;45 and 2:30, depending on the route you choose.
I woke up on a sunny day and decided to head out. The first step was to purchase the Hakone Freepass from the Odakyu railroad which covers multiple modes of trasit. You can buy it at Shinjuku station as well but, let's face it, if you do that you're just going to get lost at the station and the never escape.
The first leg of the trip is from Shinjuki if from Shinjuku to Odawara, and that's there things get interesting. Sit on the right side of the train to catch views of Fuji as you travel, if weather permits. You'll also notice a steady transition from the urbanism of Tokto to more rural environments. One of the things that makes this a great trip is a break for Tokyo's sometimes crushing intensity.
From Odawara, a quick train switch gets you to Hakone where things start to be fun. In Hakone, the first ride is a steep cable car that begins your ascent up the mountain. My recollection is that there are three cars per train but you can walk be them. The cars are connected on an angle, so the whole journey isn't flat. From what I can tell, there are people who use this as a regular form of transportation.
Hakone Ropeway
Next, the ropeway which if you've ever downhill skied you'll recognize as a pretty conventional gondola in many ways. The ropeway gets you from Hakon to Owakudan, which is one of the most surreal landscapes I've ever seen.
Owakudan, and the famous sulphur cooked eggs.
Owakudan is the sight of a lot of volcanic activity, which results in a lot of vapour being released into the air. The ascent and descent can feel like you're embedded in the steam at times, adn the scent of sulfur lingers in the air at best gently, and at times powerfully.
The obligatory gift shop is here, but really what you want is the famouse Owakudan black eggs, cookined in the sulphuric waters that collect in pools. Don't be too fooled--eggshells are impermeable to moisture, so they taste pretty much like a normal hard boiled egg but really are you not going to try them.
From Odawana, a second ropeway takes you down to Lake Ashi. There's actually a pretty decent cafeteria to eat there, so if you haven't yet it's worth waiting.
If you're looking for gifts, and souvenirs get off the cable care one stop early and visit the Hakone Crafthouse. Much more interesting stuff, and there are also opportunities to try your hand at some things.
Two things I'd do differently? First: take the Romance Car--it cuts almost an hour off one way travel, and offers assigned seating. Second: if you plan ahead (I did not) book a hotel in Hakone, stay for a relaxing night and then head to Enoshima and Kamakura the next day. Both are lovely places to visit (Enoshima in particular is astonishingly beautiful) and you'll appreciate the solid night's sleep and relaxation before visiting.
